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Akari

At first it's puzzling. The interior looks more pub than restaurant, with huge wooden tables and a long bar. Then you notice the overload of Japanese accessories, and it begins to make sense. The food is so pretty you almost don't want to eat it, but when you tuck in, smashing it up like a nihilist in the Tate, you'll be glad you did. It's weird and delicious. As soon as your plates are cleared new ones arrive, clean and ready for more. Like Groundhog Day, but without the rubber-faced, ghost-busting goon.

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