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Portal

First port of call for laid-back luxury and non-threatening poshness. Request a table in the conservatory, and listen to the waiters; these guys have encyclopaedic knowledge of what they serve. As for the vino... when even the olive oil has a vintage, you know the wine ain't gonna be shoddy. If port is more than a coal-tinged tipple left out for Santa once a year for you, then all your Christmases just came at once.

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