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Best behaviour is in order at this slick gastro pub – they can smell poverty a mile off. Assemble the required accessories: pashmina, Baby Gap clad toddler, house in Canonbury – yes they can tell – and you'll fit in fine. Chatter is restricted to a dull hum – no vulgar job talk, baby gyms and weaning fine. Waiters range from wearily friendly to downright rude and prices are the wrong side of immoral.

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